Glossary · Raw material

Treemoss

Treemoss (Pseudevernia furfuracea) is an aromatic material extracted by solvent from a lichen growing on tree bark, with an earthy, woody, slightly animalic, and mossy character used in chypre and fougère bases, subject to IFRA concentration limits (Société Française des Parfumeurs, accessed 2026-05-27).

Definition

Treemoss (Pseudevernia furfuracea) is collected from coniferous tree bark in Central Europe (Yugoslavia historically, now mainly Eastern Europe and Turkey) and extracted by solvent to yield a concrete and absolute. Its character is earthier, darker, and more animalic than oakmoss, with less of the sharp green freshness characteristic of Evernia prunastri (ISIPCA teaching materials, accessed 2026-05-27).

Like oakmoss, treemoss is restricted by IFRA Standards due to the presence of atranol and chloroatranol, identified as strong skin sensitizers in RIFM studies.

In composition

Treemoss was used alongside oakmoss in chypre and fougère bases as a secondary mossy character. It adds depth, earthy darkness, and woody-animalic complexity to mossy accords. In pre-IFRA formulas, the two lichens were often combined to create a rich, multi-faceted mossy foundation.

Current usage is restricted to very low levels under IFRA Standards. Reconstructed mossy accords now use synthetic chloratranol-free alternatives such as Evernyl acetate and Mossambrene to approximate the original character (Basenotes wiki, accessed 2026-05-27).

Sources

Published 2026-05-27 · Updated 2026-05-27 · Last fact check: 2026-05-27 · Osmetheca