Glossary · Raw materials

Rosemary

In niche perfumery, rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus, formerly Rosmarinus officinalis) contributes a clean camphoraceous-aromatic-green character that has anchored Mediterranean-inspired compositions and classic colognes for over three centuries, with Tunisia as the benchmark origin for perfumery-grade essential oil (Société Française des Parfumeurs, accessed 2026-05-27).

Definition

Rosemary essential oil is produced by steam distillation of the flowering tops of Salvia rosmarinus. Three chemotypes exist with distinct olfactive profiles: 1,8-cineole dominant (Tunisia, Morocco: clean, medicinal-camphoraceous, the most-used in perfumery), camphor dominant (Spain, Provence: sharper, harsher), and verbenone (Corsica: rarer, softer, sought in high-end natural perfumery). Tunisia sets the quality benchmark for the 1,8-cineole type.

The distillation yield is 1 to 2% of fresh plant material. The oil price ranges from 40 to 90 euros per kilogram in 2026 depending on origin. Rosemary is not restricted by IFRA at standard perfumery concentrations, though its 1,8-cineole content means it should be used with some caution in high concentrations on mucous membranes (Wikipedia EN, accessed 2026-05-27).

Notable examples

  • Eau de Cologne Originale (Johann Maria Farina, 1709): rosemary is one of the canonical materials in what is considered the first documented Cologne, alongside neroli, bergamot, and lavender.
  • Eau de Cologne Impériale (Guerlain, 1853): the imperial version of the Cologne tradition, presented to Empress Eugénie; rosemary structures the aromatic-hesperidic accord.
  • Eau Sauvage (Dior, 1966, Edmond Roudnitska): rosemary combined with hedione and citrus creates one of the most influential masculine fresh accords of the twentieth century (Bois de Jasmin, accessed 2026-05-27).

Sources

Published 2026-05-27 · Updated 2026-05-27 · Last fact check: 2026-05-27 · Osmetheca