Botanical Source and Extraction
Cananga odorata grows in tropical regions including the Comoro Islands, Madagascar, Indonesia, the Philippines, and Reunion (France). The Comoro Islands and Madagascar are the primary commercial sources. Flowers are harvested early in the morning before full sun, and distillation begins immediately to preserve the volatile aromatic compounds.
Distillation of ylang-ylang produces a series of oil fractions collected at sequential intervals. These are commercially designated Extra (the most prized, lightest, most floral fraction), First, Second, and Third, with decreasing aromatic refinement and increasing woody-balsamic character. Complete oil, a blend of all fractions, has the most complex profile. The Extra fraction commands the highest price and is used in fine fragrance; lower fractions appear in soap and cosmetics.
Olfactory Profile and Significance in Perfumery
Ylang-ylang Extra has an intensely sweet, white-floral, slightly rubbery, banana-custard character with narcotic depth. Its principal aromatic compounds include benzyl acetate, linalool, benzyl benzoate, geraniol, and farnesol. Used in excess, it becomes overpowering and sickly; used with skill and restraint, it provides extraordinary luminous floral character to compositions.
Ylang-ylang appears in a remarkable number of classic fragrances. Chanel No. 5 (Ernest Beaux, 1921) is perhaps the most famous ylang-ylang-containing composition. In niche and contemporary perfumery it continues to function as a key white floral and oriental note. Its banana-floral facets contribute to tropical and beach compositions, while its narcotic depth anchors heavy floral orientals.
See Also
Related entries: Tuberose, Jasmine, Soliflore, Centifolia Rose.
Sources
- Arctander, S. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. 1960.
- Sell, C. The Chemistry of Fragrances. RSC Publishing, 2006.
- Fragrantica. Ylang-ylang note overview. fragrantica.com.