House · French perfumery

Heeley

Heeley is a niche perfume house founded in Paris (France) by British designer James Heeley, whose first scents ELLE Belgique dates to 2004. It is best known for Cardinal, an incense on white linen, Sel Marin and Menthe Fraîche, all unisex and made in France.
Founded · 2004 (first scents, ELLE Belgique)
Origin · Paris (France)
Founder(s) · James Heeley
Status · No acquisition reported (November 2026)
Boutique · Galerie Montpensier, Palais-Royal, Paris (France)

Quick answers

The house
Niche perfume house founded in Paris (France) by British designer James Heeley. ELLE Belgique dates its first scents to 2004.
Positioning
Designer perfumery, clean and often fresh, in eau de parfum and extrait. The house says its scents suit both women and men.
Creative direction
Founder James Heeley, whom ELLE Belgique presents as the creator of his scents. The only other published credit is Marion Fabre, whom Now Smell This credited for Ophélia in 2009.
Notable perfumes
Cardinal (2006), Sel Marin (2008), Menthe Fraîche, Iris de Nuit, Eau Sacrée (2016).
Ownership
Osmetheca found no reported acquisition or outside shareholder. The house does not publish its ownership.
Catalog and boutique
As of 6 November 2026, the site lists seventeen eaux de parfum and seven extraits. Its boutique is at 34 Galerie Montpensier, in the Palais-Royal gardens in Paris (France).

History of the house

Heeley was founded in Paris by British designer James Heeley. ELLE Belgique reports he has been developing scents since 2004. The brand also goes by Heeley Parfums or James Heeley, and the Kafkaesque blog still linked to its former site, jamesheeley.com, in 2013.

He did not train at a perfumery school. ELLE Belgique recounts that he studied philosophy and law in London (United Kingdom), then moved to Paris at 26 without speaking French. There he learned graphic design, which he says changed his life.

Design came next. He made zinc roofing vases for a leading French florist, and met Annick Goutal, who in turn worked with them. He had always had “cette folle idée de faire un parfum” [this crazy idea of making a perfume], he told ELLE Belgique.

Self-taught, he found a small laboratory near Grasse (France) willing to let him in. His first scent, ELLE Belgique writes, was Menthe Fraîche, built on a fresh mint base that the magazine calls very English.

In May 2006, Now Smell This described James Heeley as a British designer living in Paris, best known for his vases. His range then held five eaux de parfum, including Eau de Figuier. In November 2006 came Cuir Pleine Fleur, Esprit du Tigre and Cardinal.

The catalog grew almost every year. Sel Marin followed in 2008, Ophélia in 2009 and a trio of extraits in 2012. In 2014, Vetiver Veritas opened a 100% natural collection. In 2017, Note de Yuzu was created with fashion and music label Maison Kitsuné.

In 2016, ELLE Belgique reported that James Heeley had left Paris for Brussels (Belgium), with sixteen scents developed since 2004. Launches have continued: Rose Aria and Athenean in 2021, Cologne Officinale in 2023 and Pomelo Crush in 2025.

Boutique and ownership

The Heeley boutique is at 34 Galerie Montpensier, in the Palais-Royal gardens, 75001 Paris (France). The house points to a list of retailers for the rest of the world. As of 6 November 2026, Osmetheca found no reported acquisition of the brand.

The collections

Heeley organizes its catalog by concentration rather than by named collections. The site separates eaux de parfum, extraits de parfum, candles and a design section, a legacy of the founder’s first trade.

Eaux de parfum

As of 6 November 2026, the Eau de Parfum page lists seventeen references. The house says they are made in France by traditional methods and suit both women and men. They include Cardinal, Sel Marin, Menthe Fraîche, Iris de Nuit, Esprit du Tigre, Hippie Rose, L’Amandière, Note de Yuzu, Athenean and Pomelo Crush.

Extraits de parfum

The Extrait de Parfum page lists seven references, made in France from rare materials, the house says: Agarwoud, Bubblegum Chic, Bubblegum Chic Pink, Chypre 21, Eau Sacrée, Phoenician Leather and Rose Aria. The first extrait trio, Bubblegum Chic, L’Amandière and Agarwoud, was announced by Now Smell This in January 2012.

Vetiver Veritas and naturals

In May 2014, Now Smell This announced Vetiver Veritas as the first scent in a new 100% natural collection. It remains in the eau de parfum range, in a 50 ml size.

Candles and design

The house also sells scented candles and design objects. Now Smell This noted in 2006 that James Heeley designed vases, furniture and home accessories before turning to scent.

Notable perfumes

The Heeley catalog reads best by launch date, which Now Smell This has tracked since 2006. The house’s product pages name no perfumer. The only published credit besides the founder is Marion Fabre for Ophélia. Heeley perfumes do not yet have entries on Osmetheca.

YearPerfumePerfumerAccord
UndatedMenthe FraîcheJames Heeley (ELLE Belgique)Spearmint, peppermint, green tea, white cedar
2006Eau de FiguierUndisclosedFig, fig leaf, white cedar, lime
2006CardinalUndisclosedIncense, labdanum, myrrh, white linen accord
2006Esprit du TigreUndisclosedMint, cardamom, camphor
2006Cuir Pleine FleurUndisclosedViolet, mimosa, birch, leather, vetiver
2008Sel MarinUndisclosedLemon, sea salt, algae, vetiver, cedar
2009OphéliaMarion FabreOrange, jasmine, ylang-ylang, tuberose, white musk
2011Hippie RoseUndisclosedRose and patchouli
2012Bubblegum Chic, L’Amandière, AgarwoudUndisclosedFirst trio of extraits
2014Vetiver VeritasUndisclosedVetiver, 100% natural collection
2015Chypre 21UndisclosedChypre, an “ode to Parisian chic”
2016Eau SacréeUndisclosedIncense, myrrh, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver
2017Note de YuzuUndisclosedYuzu, with Maison Kitsuné
2021AtheneanUndisclosedA reworking of Eau de Figuier
UndatedIris de NuitUndisclosedIris, violet, carrot seed, ambergris

Olfactory signature

The Heeley signature is designer perfumery: legible and often fresh. The range runs from mint and citrus (Menthe Fraîche, Note de Yuzu, Pomelo Crush) to sea salt (Sel Marin), iris (Iris de Nuit) and church incense (Cardinal, Eau Sacrée).

Every product page gives a three-tier pyramid, followed by two portraits marked ♂ and ♀. Cardinal conjures “an immaculate young priest”. Sel Marin nods to Jacques Mayol in The Big Blue, and Menthe Fraîche to Patrick Bateman in American Psycho.

ELLE Belgique credits James Heeley with unexpected pairings and no sugary or heady scents. His perfumes are unisex because, he says, gender labels make no sense. In 2006, Now Smell This compared Cardinal with Comme des Garçons Avignon, finding it brighter.

“Le graphisme est lié à l’architecture, et à la mode. Le monde a commencé à faire sens : j’ai senti que tout était imbriqué.” [Graphic design is linked to architecture and to fashion. The world began to make sense: I felt everything was interwoven.] James Heeley, ELLE Belgique, 5 September 2016.

Key characteristics

Palette
Mint, citrus, sea salt, algae, incense, labdanum, myrrh, iris, fig, vetiver, cedar (checked product pages)
Gender
Unisex, as the house states
Concentrations
Eau de parfum · Extrait de parfum
Beyond fragrance
Scented candles · Design objects

Frequently asked questions

Who founded Heeley?01
British designer James Heeley, based in Paris. ELLE Belgique recounts that he studied philosophy and law in London, then graphic design in Paris, before moving into design and scent.
When was Heeley founded?02
ELLE Belgique wrote in 2016 that James Heeley had been developing scents since 2004. By May 2006, Now Smell This described a range of five eaux de parfum. The house publishes no founding date.
Where is the Heeley boutique?03
At 34 Galerie Montpensier, in the Palais-Royal gardens, 75001 Paris (France), near Palais Royal, Musée du Louvre metro. The house also lists retailers abroad. Osmetheca does not sell perfume.
What are Heeley’s best-known perfumes?04
Cardinal (2006), an incense on a white linen accord, Sel Marin (2008), Menthe Fraîche, which ELLE Belgique calls his first scent, Iris de Nuit and the extrait Eau Sacrée (2016).
Who makes Heeley perfumes?05
ELLE Belgique presents James Heeley as the creator of his scents. Product pages name no perfumer. The only other published credit is Marion Fabre, whom Now Smell This credited for Ophélia in 2009.
Is Heeley an independent house?06
As of 6 November 2026, Osmetheca found no reported acquisition or outside shareholder. The house does not publish its ownership, so its independence is not documented by a source.
What does Heeley Cardinal smell like?07
The house lists white linen, pink pepper and black pepper on top, labdanum, frankincense and myrrh at the heart, vetiver, grey amber and patchouli in the base. Now Smell This compared it in 2006 with Comme des Garçons Avignon.
Are Heeley perfumes unisex?08
Yes. The house says its eaux de parfum suit both women and men. In ELLE Belgique, James Heeley calls gender labels meaningless.
What is the difference between Heeley eau de parfum and extrait?09
As of 6 November 2026, the site lists seventeen eaux de parfum and seven extraits. The extraits are described as made from rare materials, in 100 ml and 15 ml, such as Eau Sacrée or Agarwoud.

Sources

Published on 6 November 2026 · Updated on 6 November 2026 · Author: Sabrina Carlier · Osmetheca.