Perfume · Woody

Féminité du bois

Féminité du bois is a cedar-led woody fragrance launched in 1992 under the Shiseido name, with Serge Lutens as art director. The specialist press credits Pierre Bourdon and Christopher Sheldrake. It now sits in the Serge Lutens Collection Noire.
Year · 1992
House · Serge Lutens (originally Shiseido)
Family · Woody
Perfumers · Pierre Bourdon, Christopher Sheldrake

Quick answers

Description
Honeyed, fruity, spiced cedar, the starting point of the Serge Lutens woods
Olfactory signature
A cedar-built woody that the house calls “a confection of cedar wood”. Auparfum’s review adds fruit, spice, flowers and honey around it.
Perfumer
Pierre Bourdon and Christopher Sheldrake. The house credits no perfumer.
Audience
Unisex. The house calls it Serge Lutens’ first unisex eau de parfum.

History

Féminité du bois came out in 1992 under the Shiseido banner, art-directed by Serge Lutens. Auparfum describes it as the first fragrance launched at his instigation inside the Japanese group. The same magazine says it set the tone for Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido in Paris (France).

The story starts in Morocco in 1968. Lutens found a piece of cedar there and fell for its smell. He promised himself a perfume called Cèdre one day.

That idea met the work of Pierre Bourdon. Since the late 1980s, Bourdon had been exploring a fruity-wood composition at Quest. The concept was then developed with Christopher Sheldrake. Maurice Roucel told ÇaFleureBon he consulted on it.

Credit remains shared. Auparfum lists Sheldrake and Bourdon. Nez named only Sheldrake in 2024. The house credits no one. Osmetheca keeps the joint credit without ranking the two roles.

Auparfum reports little commercial success but a lasting influence. Bourdon reused the woody-fruity accord in Dolce Vita for Dior. Lutens extended the theme with Bois de Violette and Bois et Fruits.

The same article describes several reworks and repackagings, first under Shiseido, then under the Serge Lutens label. Lutens designed the first dark bottles himself. Today the scent is sold as an eau de parfum in the Collection Noire.

Fragrance notes

Serge Lutens publishes no pyramid for Féminité du bois. The house describes a cedar fragrance and quotes its creator: “It’s all about cedar. 60% of wood composition.” The notes below come from Auparfum’s 2007 review, grouped by Osmetheca. They are not a top, heart and base structure.

Wood
Cedarthe backbone
Flowers
Violetpowdery floral
Rosefloral
Orange blossomwhite floral
Fruit
Peachvelvety fruit
Orangezest
Plumdark fruit
Spices
Cinnamonwarm spice
Cardamomfresh spice
Clovesharp spice
Sweet notes
Honeyamber sweetness
Waxbeeswax facet
Muskssoft base

Auparfum puts the cedar at 30%. The house speaks of 60% wood. The two figures probably measure different things, and Osmetheca treats neither as a dosage.

Scent profile

The scent profile starts from the brand’s own words: cedar inspired by the warm, honeyed scents of the covered leather stalls of Morocco. The wood is not dry. Fruit and spice coat it, with flowers kept in the background.

Its distinctive move was to give cedar the lead role in a perfume named for femininity. Lutens sums up the idea himself on the official page.

“This scent expresses the masculine side of femininity and vice-versa.”Serge Lutens, official Féminité du bois page

Key characteristics

Dominant note
Cedar
Concentration
Eau de parfum
Sizes
50 ml and 100 ml
Collection
Serge Lutens Collection Noire

When and where to wear

The house gives no wearing advice, and Osmetheca has not tested this fragrance on skin. As a rough guide, its honeyed, spiced woody structure points to the cooler seasons.

Similar perfumes

Two fragrances from the same house help place Féminité du bois.

PerfumeHouse · yearWhy related
Ambre SultanSerge Lutens · 1993Same house; credited to Christopher Sheldrake alone on our entry.
Iris Silver MistSerge Lutens · 1994Same house; signed by Maurice Roucel, who says he consulted on Féminité du bois.

Frequently asked questions

What is Féminité du bois?01
A cedar-led woody fragrance launched in 1992 under the Shiseido name, with Serge Lutens as art director. It is now part of the Serge Lutens Collection Noire, as an eau de parfum.
Who created Féminité du bois?02
Auparfum and ÇaFleureBon credit Pierre Bourdon and Christopher Sheldrake. Nez named only Sheldrake in 2024, and the house credits no one. Maurice Roucel says he was consulted.
When was Féminité du bois released?03
In 1992, under the Shiseido name. Auparfum (2007) gives the date and Nez (2024) confirms it. Serge Lutens only created his own brand in 2000.
Why is Féminité du bois linked to Shiseido?04
Serge Lutens was then working on Shiseido’s image, a partnership the group dates back to 1980. The perfume launched under the Shiseido name before joining the Serge Lutens catalogue.
What are the notes in Féminité du bois?05
The house publishes no pyramid. Auparfum lists cedar, violet, rose, orange blossom, peach, orange, plum, cinnamon, cardamom, clove, honey, wax and musks.
How much cedar is in Féminité du bois?06
Serge Lutens speaks of “60% of wood composition” on the official page. Auparfum puts the cedar at 30%. The two figures probably do not describe the same thing.
Has Féminité du bois been reformulated?07
Yes: it has been reworked and repackaged several times, under Shiseido and then under the Serge Lutens name. The house does not comment on these versions.

See also

Sources

Published on 4 November 2026 · Updated on 4 November 2026 · Author: Sabrina Carlier · Osmetheca.