Definition
Biotech rose describes a rose smelling raw material produced by precision fermentation or by cellular agriculture, as an alternative to classical extraction of Rosa damascena and Rosa centifolia. Engineered yeasts recreate the flower's biosynthetic pathways and release odor active molecules into the broth, which are then separated, purified and added to the perfumer's concentrate.
Origin and history
The founding partnership pairs Ginkgo Bioworks with Robertet, announced in November 2015 around designer yeasts engineered to produce rose smelling ingredients (source: Ginkgo Bioworks). In May 2017 the two groups reported a successful commercial scale fermentation, in a 50,000 liter reactor. In April 2024, Robertet and Italian biotech firm Aethera Biotech presented a new patented rose extract at InCosmetics Global in Paris.
Use in perfumery
Biotech rose tends to complement classical absolutes and essences, rarely to replace them outright. It sits inside the wider family of biotechnology derived materials in perfumery, alongside Ambrofix, an ambroxide produced by sugar cane fermentation at Givaudan (source: Givaudan). The main argument behind these materials is lower pressure on rose farming, which consumes large amounts of land, water and labor.
Sources
- Ginkgo Bioworks, A New Cultured Palette, partnership with Robertet (accessed 4 June 2026)
- PR Newswire, Ginkgo Bioworks and Robertet, commercial scale fermentation, May 2017 (accessed 4 June 2026)
- Givaudan, new biotechnology approach for Ambrofix, 2019 (accessed 4 June 2026)
- Industries Cosmétiques, Robertet and Aethera Biotech rose extract, April 2024 (accessed 4 June 2026)