Definition
Rosa damascena flowers must be harvested by hand at dawn before the heat opens the petals fully, within a three-to-four-week window in late spring. Steam distillation produces rose otto (essential oil) at a yield of 0.03 to 0.04% of fresh petals, making it one of the most labor-intensive and expensive naturals in perfumery. Bulgaria's Kazanlak valley sets the quality benchmark; Turkish Isparta, Moroccan Dades, and Iranian Kashan each produce significant volumes with slightly different profiles.
Compared to the centifolia rose (May rose), the Damascus variety reads spicier, more peppery, less honeyed, and more complexly aldehydic, making it better suited to classical oriental and chypre structures. Rose otto price ranges from 6,000 to 12,000 euros per kilogram in 2026 depending on vintage and origin (Wikipedia EN, accessed 2026-05-27).
Notable examples
- Portrait of a Lady (Frédéric Malle, 2010, Dominique Ropion): heavy Damascus rose-patchouli accord, one of the most intense rose compositions in contemporary niche perfumery.
- Une Rose (Frédéric Malle, 2000, Edouard Fléchier): soliflore Damascus rose construction considered a benchmark of the genre (Fragrantica, accessed 2026-05-27).
- Rose 31 (Le Labo, 2006): Damascus rose framed by cumin, cedar, and musk in a gender-neutral reading.