You are considered the memory of Guerlain. What fascinates you about the brand?
This house is nearly 200 years old, which is already a feat, but it is also fascinating because it has always known how to innovate, not by breaking the codes, but by absorbing them in order to transform them. Each time, it was the product of an era. You see it with Shalimar, for example, or with the invention of the first refillable lipstick, in 1870. The first niche perfumes in the world are Guerlain, with the creation of L'Art & La Matière, and selective distribution is Guerlain too. It is a house that turns the treasures of nature into jewels, whether olfactory, in makeup or in skincare. And that metamorphosis does not apply only to the fragrances: it carries on into the bottle, the story told around it, the information, the inspirations. One last point that makes me especially proud, we have an ethical label on almost all our raw materials and, within two years, on all of them.
Guerlain is experienced today as an experience, notably through fairly confidential Ateliers. What is their purpose and how do they work?
Some people no longer necessarily want to experience perfume by smelling three fragrances on a display wall. The aim is to create privileged moments where we explore everything that lies behind the perfume: the creation, the technical side, the secrets. Is this a perfume for going out or for daytime? Can you do layering? There are also more indirect questions: what assures me that this perfume was made ethically, or will the raw material be stable? Sometimes we talk around themes that let people discover perfume differently, such as Guerlain and music in partnership with the Théâtre de la Monnaie. Our latest worldwide release, the L'Heure Bleue eau de parfum, is an obvious subject and great fun to work with. The seam is endless; some people have attended more than 20 Ateliers. Guerlain is that blending of civilizations, with an incredible potential for stories to tell, even though the house remains very French and very avant-garde in the way it conceives its perfumes.
Why does one choose to sign up?
Today, niche perfumes, popularized among other things by TikTok, appeal to people who are younger and younger and who do not hesitate to invest at least 400 euros, which is quite new. There is also a push toward a general hedonism, a wish to stand out. Behind perfumes there are worlds that are more or less secret to the vast majority of people. The Ateliers, held here or outside, are a way into those worlds. It is a unique experience, in a small group of five people maximum, very different from what you normally get to live.
How long do these Ateliers last, and what do they cost?
An hour and a half, generally. I present around fifteen perfumes and we stay three minutes on each one. Time goes very fast! The Ateliers are offered at 100 €, waived if you make a purchase. Honestly, that is always the case, thanks to the breadth of choice in fragrance as well as in makeup and skincare.
How can one take part?
The Ateliers answer to certain criteria of loyalty to the house; that said, some are organized with partners and are more open. Either people contact me directly, or they speak to someone on the Guerlain team. Many 'Guerlain Atelier Workshops' also take place outside, notably at the TheMérode club. A good way to discover them.
You also conduct one-to-one consultations to choose the perfume that matches a person very precisely. How do they unfold?
The first stage consists of exploring paths that have nothing to do with perfumery. There is a discovery phase about tastes, lifestyle, the perfumes that fascinate you. About seasons, too. A consultation will not be the same in winter and in summer, and it is always evolving. Then come more technical aspects, to pin down your favorite olfactory family among the four that exist, floral, woody, oriental or citrus. The hardest part is finding the sub-families and the favorite raw materials likely to please you. In my consultations there are always small challenges, because we know what we like but much less what we do not know. In the end there is a selection and, if that is not enough, we have fun with layering.
Do you carry out digital consultations?
We have developed a session on the website, but nothing replaces a face to face, the trials on skin, the way a scent evolves, the layerings and the understanding of real practice. No one has yet found a technology that crosses the screen olfactorily!
You mentioned L'Art & La Matière. In what way does it differ from a mainstream collection?
First, by its distribution. Haute perfumery is not easily found at a retailer, because it has to be presented by staff trained by Guerlain. The higher up the range you go, the more confidential the perfumes are. These are shared collections, built around the most beautiful raw materials and around an artistic emotion. Another element is rarity, with materials that are harder to obtain, found in particular in our annual exceptional pieces, regarded as the haute joaillerie of perfume. Finally, the concentration is 20 % for L'Art & La Matière, which is not the case for a classic such as La Petite Robe Noire. Perfume is truly approached differently, with a determination to build a story around the inspirations and the raw materials.
Can you tell us about a holy grail… the bespoke perfume?
It is the most exclusive expression of the master perfumer's savoir-faire, and an olfactory signature that reveals every facet of a personality. A complex process that takes time, about a year, and comes at a certain cost. With the advantage of a direct meeting with Thierry Wasser. At the end of it, a formula that belongs for life to the person who commissioned it. This exceptional experience is a huge success and we have a waiting list. There are other exclusivities, such as Les Privilèges, a collection of six exceptional fragrances created by Thierry Wasser in tribute to the historic ingredients of the Guerlinade and produced in very limited quantity. Each «cuvée» is issued in eight copies and never reproduced. More simply, you can also personalize your perfume through layering. Bergamot is found in all our perfumes; if you lay down an extrait and one of our perfumes on top of it, it is wonderful. You can also layer a perfume from L'Art & La Matière with one of the Aqua Allegoria fragrances. There is what the creator makes, and then there is what you make your own. One of my roles is to guide you in that search.
Do you recommend fragrance wardrobes?
That is a trick question. The answer lies in your own desires, and nowhere else. Do I want to change according to my mood, the time of day, my activities, the seasons? The first one to own is the one you will wear the most, the one that defines you, your sillage.
Is there a notable shift in perfumes?
There is one terribly forgotten shift, and that is climate change and the challenges ahead of us. Raw materials, among other things, are no longer those of ten years ago. Bergamot, the house's signature material, used since 1853 in tribute to Eau de Cologne Impériale, one of our greatest successes, comes from Calabria. We still source from the same village, from the descendants of the original growers, which is incredible. Like Sicily, Calabria is swept by hot winds and has water problems. It is therefore very difficult to maintain a bergamot with the same scent. It is also one of the rare raw materials that is not distilled; only the zest is used. The challenge is immense.
Which historic perfumes are the most requested?
It depends on the distribution channels. Without taking too many risks, I would say the Aqua Allegoria, and in particular FloraBloom, with the lovely story of those deserts that cover themselves in flowers. A well-built, fresh perfume that can be worn by anyone. Within L'Art & La Matière, it is Angélique Noire. And for the whole world! A small masterpiece of composition, with a green side, a little ambery, a little round, very distinctive, and one of the oldest in the collection as well as one of the most original.
What are the mistakes one should absolutely avoid when choosing a perfume?
The most practical advice is to speak to the right person and to look for relevant information about the house: its history, its ethics, how it manufactures, the raw materials, the creator. You have to try it on skin and find out about the concentration, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, extrait, absolu, and at the worst possible moment, when you are a little too warm. If the way it evolves is enjoyable, that is a good sign. Importantly, you must never wear perfume before making a choice. I think it is helpful to be alone at that moment, because perfume is a selfish pleasure, a signature for yourself first. One last piece of advice: never rub a perfume; only the extrait is rubbed. You should lay it down in two sprays and follow how it evolves.
What matters most to you in these Ateliers and consultations?
That you have learned something. For me that is the finest of compliments and, I have to say, the one I hear most often.
Private Client Relationship Manager and Fragrance Expert
What do your various titles cover, starting with Private Client Relationship Manager, which does not exist in every country?
There are about fifteen of us worldwide. We look after the clients who are fondest of the house. They have access, in particular, to a private salon, open by appointment only, for advice and for events around perfume: brunches, Ateliers, afterworks.
You are also a fragrance expert. What is the link between those two titles?
I have the expertise and I can pass on the history and the savoir-faire of the house. So I am a National Ambassador for fragrance. There are 12 of us worldwide. Like everyone who does the same job as I do, I can also advise on skincare and makeup, since Guerlain is a house that rests on those three pillars. I also spend privileged moments with our perfumer Thierry Wasser, who is also a botanist and travels the world in search of everything to do with raw materials and traceability, and who has today handed creation over to Delphine Jelk. It is useful to be both an expert and a private client relationship manager, because clients, who are better and better informed, need someone in front of them who can quickly bring them the best expertise.
See also
Sources
- Original interview by Viviane Eeman with Maxence Nourric, Private Client Relationship Manager and Fragrance Expert at Guerlain, conducted in the private salon of the house on 18 August 2026. The answers were reviewed by the interviewee. The interview was conducted in French; the answers are translated by Osmetheca. The French original is available at À bâtons rompus avec Maxence Nourric.
- Guerlain, official website of the house