What makes a great nose?
At a glance
- The authors of niche: Pierre Bourdon, Christopher Sheldrake, Maurice Roucel, Olivia Giacobetti, Dominique Ropion, Mark Buxton.
- The founders and the independents: Andy Tauer, Alessandro Gualtieri, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, Francis Kurkdjian, Bertrand Duchaufour, Antoine Lie, Nathalie Feisthauer.
- The in-house perfumers: Jean-Claude Ellena and Christine Nagel (Hermès), Thierry Wasser (Guerlain), Olivier Polge (Chanel), Jacques Cavallier Belletrud (Louis Vuitton), Mathilde Laurent (Cartier).
- The great noses of the fragrance houses: Alberto Morillas, Olivier Cresp, Calice Becker, Daniela Andrier, Anne Flipo, Annick Ménardo, Quentin Bisch, Olivier Pescheux.
- The career award: the Fragrance Foundation’s Lifetime Achievement Perfumer award (New York), first given to Alberto Morillas in 2013, then to Cresp, Ropion, Becker, Flipo, Cavallier Belletrud and Andrier.
A nose, or creative perfumer, chooses the materials and writes the formula of a fragrance. Many work for a fragrance supplier, some for a single house, others as independents or at the head of their own brand.
The twenty-seven perfumers in this guide have signed landmark fragrances since the 1990s, in niche as well as in luxury. They are grouped into four profiles, each entry giving their affiliation, landmark creations and awards.
The 27 perfumers at a glance
The affiliation shown is the latest known. A fragrance is listed without a year when its launch date is not established.
| Perfumer | Affiliation | Landmark creations | Award |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pierre Bourdon | Trained at Roure, pupil of Edmond Roudnitska | Cool Water (1988), Féminité du Bois (1992), Iris Poudre (2000) | |
| Christopher Sheldrake | Serge Lutens; Chanel, fragrance research and development (2005) | Féminité du Bois (1992), Ambre Sultan (1993) | |
| Maurice Roucel | Symrise, master perfumer | Iris Silver Mist (1994), Musc Ravageur (2000), L’Instant de Guerlain | Prix François Coty (2002); Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres (2012) |
| Olivia Giacobetti | Independent; founder of IUNX (2003) | Premier Figuier (1994), Philosykos (1996), En Passant (2000) | |
| Dominique Ropion | IFF, Master Perfumer (2018) | Ysatis, Carnal Flower (2005), Portrait of a Lady (2010) | Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, Fragrance Foundation (2019) |
| Mark Buxton | Independent; Mark Buxton Perfumes, Paris (France) | Comme des Garçons (1994) | |
| Andy Tauer | Tauer Perfumes, Zurich (Switzerland), 2005 | L’Air du Désert Marocain, Lonestar Memories, Une Rose Chyprée | |
| Alessandro Gualtieri | Nasomatto, Amsterdam (Netherlands); Orto Parisi | Black Afgano (2009), Nudiflorum (2018) | |
| Marc-Antoine Corticchiato | Parfum d’Empire, founder and perfumer | Corsica Furiosa, Tabac Tabou | FiFi Awards France, Experts’ Prize, niche (2015 and 2016) |
| Francis Kurkdjian | Maison Francis Kurkdjian (2009); Dior (2021) | Le Male, For Her (2003), Baccarat Rouge 540 | Prix François Coty (2001) |
| Bertrand Duchaufour | TechnicoFlor (2014); creative director of L’Entropiste | Timbuktu (2004), Avignon, Dorian’s Spleen (2025) | Perfumer of the Year, FIFI Awards Russia (2017) |
| Antoine Lie | Independent since 2018 (Antoine Lie Olfactive Experience) | Sécrétions Magnifiques (2006), Wonderwood (2010) | |
| Nathalie Feisthauer | Independent, LAB Scent studio | Eau des Merveilles (2004), Fluo_Ral | Perfumer of the Year, FIFI Awards Russia (2019) |
| Jean-Claude Ellena | Hermès, in-house perfumer (2004 to 2016) | Terre d’Hermès (2006) | FiFi Awards France (2012 and 2017) for Terre d’Hermès |
| Christine Nagel | Hermès, since 2014 | For Her (2003), Galop d’Hermès (2016) | Women’s FiFi d’Or, FiFi Awards France (2017) |
| Thierry Wasser | Guerlain, master perfumer (2008) | Idylle, Shalimar Parfum Initial, Mon Guerlain (2017) | Légion d’honneur (2014) |
| Olivier Polge | Chanel, perfumer-creator (2015) | Flowerbomb, Spicebomb, Misia (2015) | Prix International du Parfum (2009) |
| Jacques Cavallier Belletrud | Louis Vuitton, master perfumer (2012) | L’Eau d’Issey, Opium pour Homme, Ombre Nomade | Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, Fragrance Foundation (2024) |
| Mathilde Laurent | Cartier, in-house perfumer (2005) | La Panthère, Les Épures de Parfum | |
| Alberto Morillas | dsm-firmenich, Master Perfumer; Mizensir (1999) | CK One (1994), Acqua di Giò pour Homme (1996), Gucci Bloom (2017) | Prix François Coty (2003); first Lifetime Achievement, Fragrance Foundation (2013) |
| Olivier Cresp | dsm-firmenich, Master Perfumer (2006) | Angel (1992), Light Blue (2001), Black Opium (2014) | Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, Fragrance Foundation (2018); Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres (2012) |
| Calice Becker | Givaudan, head of the Perfumery School (2017) | Tommy Girl (1996), J’adore, Back to Black | Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, Fragrance Foundation (2021); Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres |
| Daniela Andrier | Givaudan, Master Perfumer | Infusion d’Iris (2007), Les Infusions de Prada | Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, Fragrance Foundation (2025); Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres (2012) |
| Anne Flipo | IFF, Master Perfumer | La Vie est Belle, Libre, Synthetic Jungle | Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, Fragrance Foundation (2023) |
| Annick Ménardo | Firmenich, then Symrise (2018) | Lolita Lempicka, Bulgari Black (1998), Hypnotic Poison | |
| Quentin Bisch | Givaudan | Delina (2017), Bois Impérial (2020), Guidance (2023) | Prix du Phénix (2023) |
| Olivier Pescheux | Givaudan, Master Perfumer (died 2023) | 1 Million (2008), Fleur de Peau (2018), Herod | Prix François Coty |
The 27 perfumers, by profile
The authors of niche
Six perfumers who signed founding fragrances of modern niche perfumery, for Serge Lutens, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Comme des Garçons or Frédéric Malle.
Pierre Bourdon
Landmark creations: Cool Water (1988), Féminité du Bois (1992), Iris Poudre (2000)A graduate of Sciences Po in Paris, Pierre Bourdon joined Roure Bertrand Dupont in Grasse (France) and became the only pupil of Edmond Roudnitska. He signed Cool Water for Davidoff, launched in 1988, and later Dolce Vita for Dior. With Christopher Sheldrake he composed Féminité du Bois (1992), the first fragrance Serge Lutens launched at Shiseido. In 2000 he signed Iris Poudre, the very first release of Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, followed by French Lover for the same house.
Christopher Sheldrake
Landmark creations: Féminité du Bois (1992), Ambre Sultan (1993)Christopher Sheldrake co-signed Féminité du Bois (1992) with Pierre Bourdon, then composed Ambre Sultan, launched by Serge Lutens in 1993. The house describes Féminité du Bois as a cedar inspired by the honeyed scents of Morocco, and Serge Lutens sums it up: “It’s all about cedar.” In 2013, Chanel described him as Director of Research and Development at its fragrance laboratory since 2005, working in tandem with Jacques Polge and then Olivier Polge.
Maurice Roucel
Landmark creations: Iris Silver Mist (1994), Musc Ravageur (2000), L’Instant de Guerlain Award: Prix François Coty (2002); Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres (2012)Born in Cherbourg (France), Maurice Roucel began his training at Chanel at 23, in the early 1970s. A master perfumer at Symrise, he was celebrated by his employer in 2025 for a career of more than fifty years. For niche he signed Iris Silver Mist for Serge Lutens in 1994 and Musc Ravageur for Frédéric Malle in 2000. His other credits include Tocade (Rochas), 24, Faubourg (Hermès), L’Instant de Guerlain and Be Delicious (DKNY).
Olivia Giacobetti
Landmark creations: Premier Figuier (1994), Philosykos (1996), En Passant (2000)Olivia Giacobetti joined Annick Goutal in 1982, then spent seven years as an assistant perfumer at Robertet. She went on to found her own company, Iskia, working independently outside the big fragrance suppliers. For L’Artisan Parfumeur she composed twenty fragrances between 1993 and 2007, among them Premier Figuier (1994), which the house presents as the first fragrance built around a fig note. She also signed Philosykos (Diptyque, 1996), Hiris (Hermès, 1999), Tea for Two (L’Artisan Parfumeur, 2000) and En Passant (Frédéric Malle, 2000). She founded IUNX in 2003.
Dominique Ropion
Landmark creations: Ysatis, Carnal Flower (2005), Portrait of a Lady (2010) Award: Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, Fragrance Foundation (2019)Dominique Ropion, whose mother and grandfather worked at Roure, trained at the company’s perfumery school and then spent ten years alongside Jean-Louis Sieuzac. He joined IFF in 2000, which named him Master Perfumer in 2018. His first fragrance was Ysatis (Givenchy), followed by Amarige, Alien, La Vie est Belle and Invictus. For Frédéric Malle he signed Carnal Flower (2005) and Portrait of a Lady (2010), inducted into the Fragrance Foundation Hall of Fame in 2026. He received the Prix International du Parfum in 2008 and was made a Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres in 2012.
Mark Buxton
Landmark creations: Comme des Garçons (1994)Born in England, Mark Buxton grew up in Germany and studied geology. After winning a bet on a German television show, he was offered a place at the perfumery school of Haarmann & Reimer, now Symrise. In 1994 he signed the first fragrance of Comme des Garçons, which he calls the hardest of his career. Independent since leaving Symrise, he created his own brand, Mark Buxton Perfumes, in Paris, and composed L’Air de Panache, the imaginary perfume of the film The Grand Budapest Hotel.
The founders and the independents
Perfumers who created their own house, or who compose freely for several niche houses.
Andy Tauer
Landmark creations: L’Air du Désert Marocain, Lonestar Memories, Une Rose ChypréeSwiss-born and a chemist by training, Andy Tauer came to perfume from IT and is self-taught. He founded Tauer Perfumes in Zurich (Switzerland) in 2005 and composes every fragrance of the house himself, handmade in small batches. L’Air du Désert Marocain is its classic, alongside Lonestar Memories, Incense Rosé and Une Rose Chyprée. He has kept a blog since 2006.
Alessandro Gualtieri
Landmark creations: Black Afgano (2009), Nudiflorum (2018)The Italian perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri trained at Haarmann & Reimer in the 1980s, then travelled to Sharjah (United Arab Emirates), Oman, India and Saudi Arabia. He founded Nasomatto, based in Amsterdam (Netherlands), and later a second brand, Orto Parisi. Black Afgano, which he devised in 2009, is behind much of his success. Nudiflorum, the twelfth Nasomatto fragrance, came out in June 2018. The house publishes no list of notes.
Marc-Antoine Corticchiato
Landmark creations: Corsica Furiosa, Tabac Tabou Award: FiFi Awards France, Experts’ Prize, niche (2015 and 2016)Born in Morocco to a Corsican family, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato grew up between the family orange groves near Azemmour (Morocco) and the village of Corticchiato in Corsica (France). He holds a doctorate in the chemistry of aromatic plants, trained at ISIPCA, where he teaches, and founded Parfum d’Empire, whose fragrances he signs. Corsica Furiosa and Tabac Tabou won the Experts’ Prize in the niche category of the Fragrance Foundation France FiFi Awards, in 2015 and again in 2016.
Francis Kurkdjian
Landmark creations: Le Male, For Her (2003), Baccarat Rouge 540 Award: Prix François Coty (2001)Trained at ISIPCA, Francis Kurkdjian joined Quest International in Paris, then in New York (United States). He composed Le Male for Jean Paul Gaultier at 25, in the mid-1990s, and later Narciso Rodriguez For Her (2003) with Christine Nagel. He opened a bespoke perfume atelier in 2001 and in 2009 founded Maison Francis Kurkdjian with Marc Chaya; LVMH took a majority stake in 2017. The house owes him Baccarat Rouge 540, born for the 250th anniversary of the Baccarat crystal maker. Since October 2021 he has been Perfume Creation Director at Parfums Christian Dior.
Bertrand Duchaufour
Landmark creations: Timbuktu (2004), Avignon, Dorian’s Spleen (2025) Award: Perfumer of the Year, FIFI Awards Russia (2017)Bertrand Duchaufour started in 1985 at Lautier Florasynth in Grasse (France), then spent ten years at Créations Aromatiques and Symrise. Independent from 2008, he turned to niche and joined the fragrance company TechnicoFlor in 2014. He signed Timbuktu for L’Artisan Parfumeur (2004), Avignon for the Comme des Garçons Incense series and Jubilation XXV for Amouage. As creative director of L’Entropiste, launched in January 2025, he composed Dorian’s Spleen, awarded at the Fragrance Foundation France Révélations 2026.
Antoine Lie
Landmark creations: Sécrétions Magnifiques (2006), Wonderwood (2010)After Givaudan, IFF and Takasago, where he rose to vice president and senior perfumer, Antoine Lie has worked independently since 2018 through his company, Antoine Lie Olfactive Experience. He signed Sécrétions Magnifiques in 2006, one of the launch fragrances of État Libre d’Orange. His other credits include Armani Code (2004), Wonderwood for Comme des Garçons (2010), Puredistance Black (2013) and White (2015), and Ysayo (2025).
Nathalie Feisthauer
Landmark creations: Eau des Merveilles (2004), Fluo_Ral Award: Perfumer of the Year, FIFI Awards Russia (2019)Trained at the Roure school from 1983 to 1986, Nathalie Feisthauer spent more than twenty years at Givaudan, four of them in New York (United States) from 1990. She co-signed Hermès Eau des Merveilles with Ralf Schwieger in 2004, and was one of the three perfumers behind the 2006 launch of État Libre d’Orange. After a spell at Symrise from 2008, she set up independently with her studio, LAB Scent. In 2019 the FIFI Awards Russia named her Perfumer of the Year and also honoured Fluo_Ral, composed for Nomenclature.
The in-house perfumers
Six perfumers who compose, or have composed, for a single luxury house: Hermès, Guerlain, Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Cartier.
Jean-Claude Ellena
Landmark creations: Terre d’Hermès (2006) Award: FiFi Awards France (2012 and 2017) for Terre d’HermèsThe son of a perfumer, Jean-Claude Ellena entered the trade at 16, with Edmond Roudnitska as his mentor. In 2004 he became the in-house perfumer of Hermès, where Christine Nagel succeeded him in 2016. Terre d’Hermès, launched in 2006, was honoured twice at the FiFi Awards France, in 2012 and 2017. He has also written books about his craft.
Christine Nagel
Landmark creations: For Her (2003), Galop d’Hermès (2016) Award: Women’s FiFi d’Or, FiFi Awards France (2017)A Swiss perfumer and former vice president of fine fragrance creation at Mane, Christine Nagel joined Hermès in March 2014 to work alongside Jean-Claude Ellena, and succeeded him in 2016. Before Hermès she signed Miss Dior Chérie, Giorgio Armani Sì and, with Francis Kurkdjian, Narciso Rodriguez For Her (2003). Galop d’Hermès (2016) won her the women’s FiFi d’Or in 2017, and Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate took another prize the same year.
Thierry Wasser
Landmark creations: Idylle, Shalimar Parfum Initial, Mon Guerlain (2017) Award: Légion d’honneur (2014)A Swiss perfumer who grew up in the hills above Montreux (Switzerland), Thierry Wasser trained at Givaudan, then joined Firmenich in 1993 and spent nine years in New York (United States). Guerlain appointed him in 2008: he is the first nose of the house not to bear the Guerlain name, chosen by Jean-Paul Guerlain, who handed him the formula book. He signed Idylle, Shalimar Parfum Initial and, with Delphine Jelk, Mon Guerlain (2017). The two now share creation at the house.
Olivier Polge
Landmark creations: Flowerbomb, Spicebomb, Misia (2015) Award: Prix International du Parfum (2009)The son of Jacques Polge, Chanel’s fragrance creator from 1978, Olivier Polge was a perfumer at IFF from 1998. There he signed Flowerbomb and Spicebomb for Viktor&Rolf, and worked on Lancôme La Vie est Belle. Chanel brought him in in September 2013 to succeed his father, which he did in 2015. Misia (2015) was his first fragrance for Chanel, and Gabrielle Chanel (2017) was entrusted to him together with the house laboratory.
Jacques Cavallier Belletrud
Landmark creations: L’Eau d’Issey, Opium pour Homme, Ombre Nomade Award: Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, Fragrance Foundation (2024)The grandson and son of Grasse perfumers, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud spent twenty-two years at Firmenich as a creative perfumer and director of innovation. There he signed L’Eau d’Issey, Opium pour Homme, Jean Paul Gaultier Le Classique and Nina Ricci Nina. He joined Louis Vuitton in early 2012 and built the house’s fragrance collection, launched in 2016, with Ombre Nomade, Attrape-Rêves and L’Immensité. He also helped restore Les Fontaines Parfumées, a 17th-century estate in Grasse (France).
Mathilde Laurent
Landmark creations: La Panthère, Les Épures de ParfumMathilde Laurent joined Guerlain at 23, after chemistry studies at Jussieu in Paris and before finishing ISIPCA. Since 2005 she has been the perfumer of Cartier, which works with IFF as its composition partner. Her work includes La Panthère, whose bottle won at the FiFi Awards France 2015, and the Les Épures de Parfum collection. She is one of the few in-house creators at a luxury house.
The great noses of the fragrance houses
These perfumers work for the big fragrance suppliers, Givaudan, dsm-firmenich, IFF or Symrise. They sign for the mass market and for niche alike.
Alberto Morillas
Landmark creations: CK One (1994), Acqua di Giò pour Homme (1996), Gucci Bloom (2017) Award: Prix François Coty (2003); first Lifetime Achievement, Fragrance Foundation (2013)Alberto Morillas grew up in Seville (Spain) and studied at the École des Beaux-Arts in Geneva (Switzerland) before joining Firmenich in 1970, at 20. There he signed CK One with Harry Frémont (1994), Acqua di Giò pour Homme (1996), Flower by Kenzo (2000), Daisy (2007) and Gucci Bloom (2017). In 1999 he and Claudine Morillas founded Mizensir in Geneva, now run by their daughter Véronique. In 2013 the Fragrance Foundation made him the first recipient of its lifetime achievement award. In 2019 he became the only perfumer to hold three such awards.
Olivier Cresp
Landmark creations: Angel (1992), Light Blue (2001), Black Opium (2014) Award: Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, Fragrance Foundation (2018); Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres (2012)Born in Grasse (France), with a brother and sister who are also perfumers, Olivier Cresp joined Firmenich in 1992 and became Master Perfumer in 2006. Angel, which he composed for Thierry Mugler in 1992, is credited by the Fragrance Foundation with creating an entirely new olfactive family, the gourmand. Light Blue (Dolce & Gabbana, 2001), Black XS (Paco Rabanne, 2005), Black Opium (Yves Saint Laurent, 2014) and, for Penhaligon’s, Juniper Sling (2011) followed. He was named perfumer of the year in France in 2007.
Calice Becker
Landmark creations: Tommy Girl (1996), J’adore, Back to Black Award: Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, Fragrance Foundation (2021); Chevalier des Arts et des LettresCalice Becker trained at Roure in Grasse (France) in 1985 and says she learned the craft from Dominique Ropion and Françoise Caron. A Vice President Perfumer at Givaudan, she has run the group’s Perfumery School since 2017, and in 2021 was president of the Société Internationale des Parfumeurs-Créateurs. She signed Tommy Girl (1996) and Dior J’adore, then Back to Black, Woman in Gold and Intoxicated for By Kilian, and Velvet Orchid for Tom Ford.
Daniela Andrier
Landmark creations: Infusion d’Iris (2007), Les Infusions de Prada Award: Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, Fragrance Foundation (2025); Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres (2012)After studying philosophy at the Sorbonne and an internship at Chanel in 1988, Daniela Andrier entered the Roure perfumery school, now part of Givaudan, where she is a Master Perfumer. With Miuccia Prada she composed Infusion d’Iris, launched in autumn 2007, and then the Les Infusions de Prada line. Her credits also include MYSLF, with Christophe Raynaud and Antoine Maisondieu, and Fleur d’Oranger for Fragonard.
Anne Flipo
Landmark creations: La Vie est Belle, Libre, Synthetic Jungle Award: Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, Fragrance Foundation (2023)Anne Flipo describes herself as “just a girl from a small village in the North of France.” A Master Perfumer at IFF, where she has worked for some twenty years, she has more than three decades in the trade. She created or co-created Lancôme La Vie est Belle, Yves Saint Laurent Libre, Paco Rabanne Invictus and Givenchy L’Interdit. For niche she signed Synthetic Jungle for Frédéric Malle. The Fragrance Foundation gave her its lifetime achievement award in June 2023 in New York (United States).
Annick Ménardo
Landmark creations: Lolita Lempicka, Bulgari Black (1998), Hypnotic PoisonAt Firmenich, Annick Ménardo signed Lolita Lempicka, Bulgari Black (1998), Dior Hypnotic Poison and Bois d’Argent, Yves Saint Laurent Body Kouros and Boss Bottled. Thierry Wasser, who worked with her there, says the two of them created many fragrances together. Symrise announced her arrival as a Master Perfumer in September 2018, and in 2021 she signed Ikat Rouge for Armani Privé there.
Quentin Bisch
Landmark creations: Delina (2017), Bois Impérial (2020), Guidance (2023) Award: Prix du Phénix (2023)Born in Strasbourg (France) in 1983, Quentin Bisch started at Robertet in Grasse as assistant to Michel Almairac, then entered the Givaudan perfumery school. He signed La Fin du Monde for État Libre d’Orange, Angel Muse (Mugler, 2016), Delina (Parfums de Marly, 2017) and Bois Impérial (Essential Parfums, 2020). Encelade for Marc-Antoine Barrois (2022) and Guidance (Amouage, 2023) followed. In 2023 he received the Prix du Phénix in Grasse, the successor to the Prix François Coty.
Olivier Pescheux
Landmark creations: 1 Million (2008), Fleur de Peau (2018), Herod Award: Prix François CotyBorn in Paris in 1966 and a graduate of ISIPCA, Olivier Pescheux started in 1990 at Payan Bertrand in Bangkok (Thailand), then worked for Annick Goutal and Kao before joining Givaudan in 1998. He became a Master Perfumer there. He co-signed Paco Rabanne 1 Million (2008) with Christophe Raynaud and Michel Girard. For Diptyque he composed Fleur de Peau and Tempo (2018), Eau des Sens and Orphéon; for Parfums de Marly, Herod. A former winner of the Prix François Coty, he died in Paris on 10 July 2023, aged 57.
Before them and after them
This guide covers perfumers whose work has mattered since the 1990s. Their elders have their own entries, such as Edmond Roudnitska, whose only pupil was Pierre Bourdon, or Jacques Polge, Chanel’s fragrance creator from 1978 to 2015. The next generation is covered in our overview of the new noses of niche perfumery in 2026. Every perfumer on the site is listed in the perfumers index.
Frequently asked questions
Who are the greatest contemporary perfumers?
The most recognised noses include Alberto Morillas, Dominique Ropion, Olivier Cresp, Maurice Roucel, Jean-Claude Ellena and Francis Kurkdjian. In niche, Olivia Giacobetti, Bertrand Duchaufour, Christopher Sheldrake and Andy Tauer have signed landmark fragrances.
Which perfumers have won the Fragrance Foundation Lifetime Achievement award?
Among the perfumers in this guide: Alberto Morillas, the first recipient, in 2013, Olivier Cresp in 2018, Dominique Ropion in 2019, Calice Becker in 2021, Anne Flipo in 2023, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud in 2024 and Daniela Andrier in 2025.
Who are the perfumers of Chanel, Hermès, Guerlain and Dior?
Olivier Polge has been Chanel’s perfumer-creator since 2015. Christine Nagel succeeded Jean-Claude Ellena at Hermès in 2016. Thierry Wasser has been Guerlain’s master perfumer since 2008, alongside Delphine Jelk. Francis Kurkdjian has led perfume creation at Dior since October 2021.
Which perfumers founded their own niche house?
Andy Tauer (Tauer Perfumes, Zurich, 2005), Alessandro Gualtieri (Nasomatto, then Orto Parisi), Marc-Antoine Corticchiato (Parfum d’Empire), Francis Kurkdjian (Maison Francis Kurkdjian, 2009) and Mark Buxton (Mark Buxton Perfumes). Alberto Morillas co-founded Mizensir in 1999 and Olivia Giacobetti founded IUNX in 2003.
Who created the gourmand family?
The Fragrance Foundation credits Olivier Cresp, who composed Angel for Thierry Mugler in 1992, with creating an entirely new olfactive family with that fragrance: the gourmand.
What is a nose in perfumery?
The nose is the creative perfumer: the person who chooses the materials and writes the formula of a fragrance. A nose may work for a fragrance supplier such as Givaudan, dsm-firmenich, IFF or Symrise, for a single house, or independently.
See also
Sources
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- Nez: Nathalie Feisthauer (LAB Scent), 9 June 2022
- Ermano Picco, ÇaFleureBon: Hermès Eau des Merveilles, 31 October 2020
- Lauren Valenti, Marie Claire: interview with Jean-Claude Ellena, 21 May 2014
- Der Standard: Christine Nagel, May 2023
- Premium Beauty News: FiFi Awards 2012 winners, 5 July 2012
- Premium Beauty News: FiFi Awards France 2017, 9 June 2017
- Tama Blough, ÇaFleureBon: Christine Nagel joins Hermès, 13 December 2013
- Cristina D’Agostino, Luxury Tribune: interview with Thierry Wasser, 16 July 2024
- Guerlain: Guerlain’s Creators
- Guerlain: Thierry Wasser
- Rebecca Mann, Moodie Davitt Report: Guerlain names Thierry Wasser, 18 May 2008
- Moodie Davitt Report: Mon Guerlain, 27 February 2017
- Premium Beauty News: Olivier Polge joins Chanel, 5 July 2013
- Sarah Ahssen, FashionNetwork: a generation change at Chanel, 7 July 2013
- Premium Beauty News: Misia, Olivier Polge’s first fragrance for Chanel, 2015
- Premium Beauty News: launch of Gabrielle Chanel, July 2017
- Malvine Sevrin, ELLE Belgique: Chanel’s perfumer-creator, 31 July 2019
- Marika Gervasio, Il Sole 24 Ore: Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, 14 June 2024
- Moodie Davitt Report: Louis Vuitton and Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, January 2012
- Sarah Bouasse, Nez: Mathilde Laurent (Cartier), 26 September 2020
- Philip Utz, Numéro: interview with Mathilde Laurent, 19 December 2018
- Firmenich: Alberto Morillas, three Lifetime Achievement Awards, 10 May 2019
- Firmenich: Alberto Morillas honoured by the Academia del Perfume, 16 November 2017
- dsm-firmenich: creations of Alberto Morillas
- Mizensir: History of a Swiss House
- dsm-firmenich: Master Perfumer Olivier Cresp
- dsm-firmenich: creations of Olivier Cresp
- April Long, The Fragrance Foundation: Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, Olivier Cresp, 2018
- Givaudan: Calice Becker, Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, 11 June 2021
- The Fragrance Foundation: Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, Calice Becker, 2021
- Refinery29: interview with Calice Becker, June 2013
- Givaudan: Daniela Andrier, Lifetime Achievement Perfumer, 6 June 2025
- Moodie Davitt Report: Prada Infusion d’Iris, 25 July 2007
- IFF: Anne Flipo, Lifetime Achievement Award, 16 June 2023
- Happi: Anne Flipo, 6 April 2023
- Sophie Normand, Premium Beauty News: Annick Ménardo joins Symrise, 25 September 2018
- Nicolas Gosse, Industries Cosmétiques: Ikat Rouge, 5 February 2021
- ÇaFleureBon: Bulgari Black (Annick Ménardo) 1998
- ÇaFleureBon: Quentin Bisch, 28 June 2016
- Lionel Paillès, Fragrance Foundation France: the Prix du Phénix goes to Quentin Bisch, 17 October 2023
- Fragrance Foundation France: meeting Quentin Bisch, 30 November 2020
- Dominique Brunel, Nez: Prix du Phénix 2023, 17 October 2023
- ÇaFleureBon: Parfums de Marly Delina (Quentin Bisch), 2017
- Essential Parfums: Quentin Bisch
- ÇaFleureBon: Essential Parfums Bois Impérial (Quentin Bisch), December 2020
- Amouage: the Guidance collection
- Givaudan: the passing of Olivier Pescheux, 11 July 2023
- Matthieu Jacquet, Numéro: Rabanne 1 Million, 20 November 2023
- Marie-Noëlle Vekemans, ELLE Belgique: Diptyque celebrates 50 years of fragrance, 2 March 2018
- Cosmetics Business: death of Olivier Pescheux, July 2023